Urban Skin Solutions, Oakland Acne Specialists, Ethnic Skin Experts, Black Skin Care.

Beating the Bump

Pseudofolliculitis barbae, known as razor bumps, is the number one complaint among black men and women who shave. Caused by stiff beard hair and a genetically-caused curved follicle, the hair tips reverse their course and literally penetrate and grow back into the skin, like a horseshoe, before they would normally exit. Similar to hundreds of splinters, these trapped hairs incite an inflammatory response, causing soreness, redness and swelling. This reaction, called "bumping up" creates perifollicular papules best described as swollen, puss-filled lesions blanketing the beard, or other shaving area.

Similar problems can affect women on the chin, sideburns, neck, chest, abdomen, legs and in the bikini area from tweezing, waxing, shaving and sometimes even depilatories. The sensations experienced by the razor bump (ingrown hair) sufferer are constant itching, tingling, burning, soreness, swelling and sometimes real pain. Symptoms can be mildly annoying and localized for some, and severe and extensive for others.
Pseudofolliculitis barbae is a chronic condition that can persist as long as the individual shaves, waxes, threads, and/or tweezes. Obviously, the problem can be dealt with by just allowing the hair to grow out. As the hair grows longer, it simply pops out the follicular opening and new "bumping up" ceases because the individual has stopped shaving, waxing or tweezing. This option, however, is not always practical due to the pressure of one's employer, lifestyle, beauty and grooming customs.

Strict grooming regulations have been historically imposed by law enforcement agencies, fire departments, parcel delivery services and the military. These and other industries have traditionally insisted on the clean shaven look, and this has caused suffering and disfigurement to thousands of black men. In recent years, consciousness has gradually increased and some rules are slowly changing. Some branches of the military, most notably the Navy, are allowing extremely bump-prone men to sport a short, neatly groomed beard.

For decades, viable solutions to this universal problem eluded the medical, esthetic and drug store markets, and continue to do so, on a wide-scale basis. Most physicians have relied, unsuccessfully, on topical steroids, retinoid creams and systematic antibiotics.

Over-the-counter and mailorder systems have utilized single edge blades, weak cortisone creams, bromelain enzymes, abrasive scrubs and alcohol-based salicylic acid solutions. While these methods can help improve the condition, they rarely offer longterm relief. As a result, this all too common skin disorder presents a wide open arena for knowledgeable esthetic practitioners, who can dispense exfoliating, calming and antibacterial professional products and have the skill to release ingrown hairs safely in a clinical skin care setting.

Shaving Habits: We instruct our clients to shave in the direction of hair growth with a single edge disposable blade like the PFB Bump Fighter. Examine the shaving area and determine which areas are less “bumped up” than others. Carefully imitate the shaving method and direction you use in the clearest areas, and repeat the same process on the entire shaving area. Do not repeatedly go over the same area in a back and forth motion in an effort to get a closer shave. Unscented shaving creams, mild shaving soaps and gels containing benzoyl peroxide or alpha or beta hydroxy acids work well with single-edge disposable blades. The blade should be used no more than once or twice.

If the preferred shaving method involves an electric razor, we prefer the traditional barber’s trimmer, called a T-edger or liner, which gives a close, more precise shave that the larger clippers. An example of this compact trimmer is the Wahl, designed for black men who shave, but Oster, Andes and other trimmers work equally well. Professional disinfectant spray (Clippercide or Oster) must be used before and after shaving to disinfect and lubricate the blades.

We include wives, mothers and girlfriends in the consultation. They are often the ones who wield the sewing needles and tweezers, or observe the picking, unhooking, tweezing and other types of skin tampering habits at home. Picking and tampering with the skin of introduces secondary bacteria and leads to inflammation, delayed healing, scarring and larger, thickened dark spots. Tweezing and waxing trap recently removed hairs deep below the skin line, setting them up to become trapped again and again as they re-grow.

Avoid rotary shavers that cut beard hair at too many different angles, seriously compounding the problem. The skin should never be stretched to obtain a closer shave. When the skin bounces back, newly shaved hair will be situated, and later trapped below the skin line. The same principal applies to twin, triple and five-blade razors; the first blade stretches the skin, while the second (third, fourth and fifth) blade shaves way too close.

Depilatory creams and shaving powders should be discouraged once one of our anti-bacterial, keratolytic topicals is applied nightly in the bump prone area without irritation. Use of depilatories leads to dark hyperpigmentation of the lower face and neck, sometimes called "shadowing", caused by chemical irritation and subsequent sun exposure. Melanin-suppressing skin lighteners should be introduced gradually in the absence of irritation and allergy. During the day, greaseless anti-inflammatory creams and oil-free full-spectrum sunscreens are vital to correcting and discouraging beard discoloration.

Electrolysis: Those with chronic "trouble spots" (often on the neck or cheeks, usually where tweezing was performed repeatedly) might want to explore the "blend method" of electrolysis for their problem areas. The electrologist should be skilled and experienced in the treatment of black, bump-prone clients with curved, often scarred, hair follicles. The curved follicle, healing process, risk of scarring and hyperpigmentation, as well as inflammatory reaction to the temporary "trauma" of electrolysis can differ radically from other races.

Laser hair removal has become increasingly popular in recent years to gradually and permanently reduce hair on the face and body. It is important that candidates do their homework to steer clear of the risks related to lasers, especially scarring and hyperpigmentation on darker skin tones.

Laser practitioners must:

(a) Use the safest, most appropriate laser for darker skin tones (the YAG Q-switched neodymium yttrium aluminum garnet laser that produces a 1064nm wavelength of laser light)

(b) Be well-trained in the use of that laser

(d) Be experienced working with your ethnic skin type

(e) Be able to address pre-laser pain management, reduction of inflammation, melanin suppression (to control pigmentation), sun protection/avoidance, and be able to treat post-laser skin.